On April 7, 2006, the third anniversary of the U.S. occupation of Iraq, I drove south with Shia pilgrims from Baghdad to the shrine city of Najaf. The day before, on the same route, a minibus like ours had taken machine-gun fire in the Sunni town of Iskandariyah. Five pilgrims were killed.
My companions -- a young man named Ahmed, his mother, and their friend Iskander, a driver -- came from Sadr City, the Shia bastion in Baghdad named for… more