Margarine, margarine, 'I Can't Believe It's Not Butter.'" Poppy Tooker
recalls the months of food shortages after Hurricane Katrina ripped the
Gulf Coast apart. "I could not believe there was no butter." According
to the New Orleans native, one unfortunate but little-noticed
repercussion of the storm was the demise of dairy. As a food activist,
she understood the heavily industrial process of butter churning,
preservation, shipping and storage. But in light of her city's rich
culinary history--fresh collards, crawfish étouffées and